I Wish I'd Taken a Surf Lesson Sooner

I jumped on the ferry with some friends and headed out for a weekend of surfing. We rented some gear. How hard could it be?

What I didn’t understand was how many moving parts have to come together in surfing compared to a sport like snowboarding.

With snowboarding, the environment is controlled. You can ride the same green run over and over until you feel comfortable. The terrain stays consistent. You learn the movement first, then gradually build confidence.

Surfing felt completely different. Every wave is different, and conditions are always changing. The ocean felt chaotic, positioning was frustrating, and everything was more tiring than I expected.

And that’s why lessons matter more than I thought. 

There are so many things you don’t realize you need to know at the beginning:

• where to position yourself on the board (how not to nose dive!)
• understanding rip currents 
• which waves to go for (and which ones to avoid)
• how to hold your board while waiting for waves
• surf etiquette 
• how to safely carry your board into the ocean
• when to paddle
• when to pop up
• and how to always look up! You will go where you look... 

And most importantly, how to protect your head when you fall. Arm helmet!

A good lesson gives you more than instructions. It gives you confidence and feedback in real time. Having someone explain the fundamentals early can save you a lot of time and frustration. Looking back, I just wish I’d had a bit of guidance before spending hours getting tumbled in the whitewash!